Cognac and Navy Suede Spectator Wingtip Oxford

Cognac patinated calf carries the wingtip, heel counter and facings. The patina is applied by hand, which means no two pairs come out identical. Each panel is pale amber in the middle and darker at the seams, and the toe runs almost red-brown at the tip. The saddle and the panel behind the wing are navy suede, so the shoe reads two ways depending on the light.

Full brogue punching along every seam, navy laces, leather sole with a low stacked heel. The welt is narrow and its stitch row runs close and even, tight under the wing point. Sole edge and welt are a brown a shade darker than the vamp, and the heel shows its lifts at the back.

Every panel edge is pinked into a small zigzag before it is stitched down, the suede-to-calf curve included. The toe medallion is a punched scroll that curls back on itself, the holes grading smaller as the line runs out.

The five pairs of navy laces run through plain punched holes, with no metal eyelets.